wine that does not meet the minimum qualifications and standards for use of a designation by appellation of origin (where the grapes are grown) or by varietal content; may only be labeled by proprietary (made-up) name, by general color (such as `vin rouge', `vino rosso', `rotwein', `red wine', etc.), or by general class (as `vin ordinaire', `vin de table', `vino da tavola', `tafelwein', `table wine', etc.)